Wybory jak daleko zazwyczaj nietrudno się domyślić zamków i wynajdowaniem or follow, him. Keep moving forward, while encouraging him to regain the front. You should establish the direction and pace, and not the pup. The exception is when your pup is obviously making game, at which point he should not be discouraged from following his nose. With experience, you learn to detect whether your pup is truly working birds, or simply distracted by intriguing varmint scent. Once your prospect is enthusiastically running and hunting to the front, he should be encouraged to turn to the outside at the completion of each cast. Turning inward is inefficient, and wastes effort recovering the same To accomplish this, you must anticipate the completion of the pup's cast and by momentarily increasing your pace, modifying direction, and or offering verbal encouragement direct the pup forward. This is most easily accomplished open terrain, as opposed to the grouse woods. A trip to the western prairies is, for a six to twelve month old pup, invaluable this respect. early trip to the prairies also expose your prospect to abundance of pheasants, huns, and or prairie grouse. On the prairies your pup learn how to hunt to the front, work airborne scent, get birds pointed, and to stand off game. If you can undertake such a trip, it prove to be excellent investment your prospect which accelerate his development, and provide dividends for seasons. Datus Proper, correctly counsels, Do not think of training as a substitute for hunting. Only fields and wild birds make your pup as clever, bold, and enthusiastic as his inheritance allows. A comfortable foot handled gun dog exhibit a natural tendency to quarter likely habitat, while successful horseback field trial pointing dogs are inclined to hunt edges. Both predispositions are genetic. One genetic predisposition is not necessarily better than another just different, qualifying dogs for specific purposes. A foot handled gun dog pup should be encouraged to quarter upland bird habitat, but not necessarily a mechanical, windshield wiper fashion. Similarly, a gun dog should not be dependent on direction from his handler upon completion of each cast. He should learn from experience to blend his quartering pattern with the more deliberate investigation of promising objectives, and even the occasional hunting of appealing edge. He should search for birds likely places, and pay limited attention to marginal cover. Hand and or whistle signals are for non-slip retrievers and flushing spaniels. Accomplished pointing dogs are primarily self-directed. A quartering type pattern is best developed by walking irregular, zigzag, course with your pup and verbally encouraging him to turn back across the front at the completion of each cast. As the pup gains experience and becomes habituated to this pattern, he require progressively less direction. Eventually, he routinely apply himself to bird habitat this manner with little, or no, intervention from his handler. Developing this desirable pattern early on, require a certain amount of vocalization by the handler. Since the human voice and whistles both spook wild birds, it is desirable that your pup ultimately adopt intelligent, self-directed, quartering-type pattern. The relatively quiet tone only, or vibration only, feature on e-collar is ideal way to signal your dog to turn back across the front upon completion of a quartering cast, or to respond to a change your direction. These tones do not disturb game and, therefore, are preferable to voice or whistle commands. They can be initially used combination with a voice command, and eventually suffice as the handler's exclusive signaling method when direction is occasionally required. The e-collar stimulation mode should be employed only to deter determined deer chasing. promising gun dogs have been ruined by the misuse of e-collars than by any other cause rivaled only by the improper introduction to gunfire. Both are inexcusable. Gary Christensen, the accomplished professional trainer who developed Wehle's great Elhew champions of the 80's and 90's, has correctly noted that The most important thing training a dog is what you 't do. that regard, it is critical to recognize when your prospect is ready for a new stimulus. Avoid rigid adherence to a training schedule which you have used with your last dog, or which is espoused the most recent training book, or magazine article, that you have read. All pups are individuals, and develop at different rates. While we all like precocious, early bloomers, a pup which matures more slowly is just as likely to make outstanding gun dog. As accomplished author and amateur trainer Gaddis has eloquently noted: The exceptional pup is like a rare wine, kegged from a proven vineyard. Nurture it slowly to perfection and it pleasure the years. Tap it prematurely, and you squander it's bouquet infancy. Exposing a very pup to planted pigeons or game birds to imprint him on birds, or to awaken his prey drive, is unnecessary, and potentially harmful, practice that can create style, flagging or blinking problems. A well bred pup's prey drive is embedded his DNA. It, most